Refrigerant installation

In some cases a system can cost times more to operate over the life of the system than the purchase price. Engineers are constantly looking for new ways to reduce our Nations energy usage by improving the efficiency of the heating and air conditioning systems. The problem is not with how a heating and air conditioning systems design but the way it is matched up and installed in the field.

GE hung on to a marginally profitable central air-conditioning business for twenty years because people thought it was necessary in order to have a full-line major appliance company. In reality, headquarters hated air-conditioning because its success was so dependant on the installers.

These independent contractors would put our machines into homes and then drive off, and GE lost control of the brand. The advantage of the R system was connected to its forgiveness of how it was setup in an air conditioning system. In fact in quite a few cases we are seeing R systems last as much as years before the need to be replaced. On the other hand, the new Ra system is very sensitive and requires a precision installation in order to avoid greatly affecting the life of the system.

Trace amounts of moisture could destroy the system in as little as years. There is simply no way to determine today if a company and all of their field personnel know how a Ra heating and air conditioning system is being installed.

In we have interviewed approximately 50 installers for employment. We have yet to receive a correct answer as to how these systems are to be installed. Ra Refrigerant Installation Guidelines. So Whats The Problem?

The correct answer to how an Ra refrigeration system works is as follows: Based on engineered specifications make sure the refrigerant piping is the appropriate size. A reduction in the suction-line diameter will result in capacity loss, because the mass flow rate of refrigerant to the compressor is decreased. Refrigerant lines should be supported to prevent sagging in the pipe that can interfere with oil return back to the compressor.

Uncoil the refrigerant tubing while taking care not to kink or dent it. Remove the pressure tap port valve cores before brazing the refrigerant tubing to the service access valves. Failure to do so will ruin the valve cores. This is one of the most crucial steps in the installation process and is also the main step that is omitted in the installation process. Connecting Refrigerant Tubing Dry nitrogen must be purged through the tubing during brazing to keep oxides from forming.

Flakes formed during brazing without a nitrogen purge will separate from the tubing wall to circulate with the refrigerant and oil, eventually forming restrictions. The interior of the enlarged end of tubing and the exterior of the factory-sized tubing that will insert into the enlarged mate are both cleaned, primed, or fluxed and soldered according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically using silver solder, or in some applications, brazing.

Watch out : improper swaging can damage copper tubing leading to future failures and leaks. This article describes three different temperature ranges for soldering copper piping or tubing along with some general copper pipe or tubing soldering advice. The copper tubing ends to be connected are cleaned, sanded, treated with soldering or brazing flux, and soldered or brazed.

When a capillary tube is to be soldered take are not to place soldering flux too far into the joint or the solder may flow over and close the end of the capillary tube. Soldered connections are much less likely to leak under the harsh conditions to which refrigerant piping is subjected: vibration, high pressures, high temperature swings, and outdoors, weather exposure.

For example, measuring the refrigerant gas line pressure drop or temperature change on the suction line return to the compressor will show typically that a 4 degree temperature loss through the refrigerant line will result in an 8 percent loss in cooling capacity of the system.

Or on the discharge line output from the compressor will show typically that a 4 degree temperature loss through the refrigerant line will result in a 2 percent percent loss in cooling capacity of the system.

ASHRAE[7] and some air conditioner manufacturers such as McQuay[6 ] provide a refrigeration piping guide that gives complete, detailed guidance and charts on refrigerant line sizing diameter as a function of length of run.

The company points out that the entire liquid refrigerant line is composed of more than just piping, and includes. Each of these devices or components contributes volume to the refrigerant piping system and must be considered in designing the "equivalent length" of the entire refrigerant piping system in order to determine the proper refrigerant charge. For example,. In some refrigeration system designs, a low-temperature heat laden vapor line suction line is soldered alongside the high-temperature, high-pressure liquid refrigerant line.

The purpose of this line-to-line soldering is to act as a heat exchanger, to reduce the temperature of the liquid refrigerant that is going to enter the metering device TEV or cap tube , gaining some benefit to system operation - we want a lower refrigerant temperature at the point where the liquid refrigerant is about to be metered or released into the cooling coil evaporator coil in the air handler.

A second benefit of this heat exchange is that in the larger suction line entering the compressor, the refrigerant enters at a higher temperature, easing the compressor's job of compressing and raising the refrigerant temperature on the condenser side, so that the refrigerant is by being hotter better able to transfer heat to ambient air in the environment around the condensing coil.

Other forms of air conditioner and heat pump economizers and economizer tricks of the trade are discussed. On by mod - routing refrigerant piping under the roof decking. John, Thank you that's a helpful question. I don't think you will find an explicit statement in the model building codes about the distance below roof deck that's acceptable for routing air conditioning or heat pump refrigerant lines.

However the lines do need to be routed in a way that they're not exposed to damage. Because it's common for roofing nails to penetrate the roof deck it would make sense that the refrigerant lines would be several inches away from the deck. That's the same reasoning as applies to routing electrical wires that might be sent through rafters.

Is there a code that states a minimum distance below a roof deck for refrigerant lines to be installed? The refrigeration valve on my Trane condenser keeps releasing and a large amount of liquid is discharged. Is this normal?

A friend of mine is having some problems with a room sized split air conditioner in his home. The unit is about three years old. A few months ago the unit stopped cooling and an air conditioning technician confirmed that the gas had leaked out. To inspect the lines some drywall had to be removed form a lowered ceiling, and upon inspection a cracked flare nut was found.

The technician said that this is a not uncommon occurrence. Have you ever come across cracked flare fittings in small air conditioners? It seems to me that it's just a case of poor quality fittings. What do you think? Anyway, the damaged fitting was replaced and the unit again functioned properly. This is also a new on one me. The tubing was professionally installed and there are few bends. Unfortunately the tubing is in the wall, and partly behind a tiled bathroom wall, so revealing all of it to find the point of failure will be serious undertaking.

My friend is thinking of rerouting for convenience though the result will not be as aesthetic and the rerouted tubing will inconveniently routed on the roof of his home, where the compressor is located. Do you have any experience with leaks in copper tubing except at bends or points of "trauma? Thanks for any insights. JD Yes, you can buy a suitable copper tubing reducer, but depending on the difference in piping diameter the technician may simply use a swaging tool to join the copper tubing.

If the connection on New ac is bigger and and the lines coming out house is smaller can you get a converter and join both together? Tux Yes it's possible to relocate a refrigeration compressor - commonly done with commercial systems and walk-in coolers. Not below a floor - it needs to be able to cool. BTW - the compressors fine Its a great Hoshizaki residential under counter machine that gravity drains to the basement utility room below and never has issues.

Alternatively, is it a feasible idea to extend the compressor lines below the floor into the utility room? Moving the compressor to a room where the noise is isolated? I may want to use a flexible line so the machine can still be pulled out when needing to be serviced. Never needed to in 7 years but planning for the worst if possible.

Just checking if its feasible if I find a good AC or fridge guy to do it. Deb If in the course of removing a freezer compressor motor or coils you break open the refrigerant piping, if there is refrigerant in the system you'll discharge it into the environment - a step that's illegal in many countries as it's a contaminant.

If you keep them intact then you avoid that issue, but you may still need to contact your local environmental authority to ask how to dispose of that equipment. The greater hazard is leaving doors on old refrigerators and freezers - a child hazard. I have an old small deep freeze no longer any good I went to take the coils off back and the motor or whatever it is is it safe to unhook Arquette the copper tubing.

On - by mod - increase in electric bill with new Rheem central air unit. Renee I really do not know but that won't stop a guess: a wiring error including a short or current leak could be at fault here. You might get better diagnosis with an experienced electrician on site.

The ac stopped cooling within the first 2 wks, said the breaker was tripped but took them 2 trips to figure it out. My heating stopped working 2 days ago, they said the breaker was tripped but there was also a hole in the cooper line.

Why does it keep tripping the breaker? Is it suppose to be insulated? Thickness, hardness, intended use. I hsve not seen "type R" copper piping per se, but type "ACR" is specifically intended for use in refrigeration, air conditioning, heat pump systems.

What's the difference between L and R tubing? Barbara Well I hate to get in the middle of dispute like this because I know someone's going to be mad. But I have to say that people installing refrigerant piping should be perfectly aware of where it's vulnerable and should take steps to protect it.

Claiming that an older house doesn't have ro comply with code is a poor excuse in my opinion. And in most jurisdictions, new work is required to comply with current codes. But putting all of that code arm waving aside, aside if you know or can see with comparative you that there is a problem in your piping installation then you should sddress it at installation. Thats always going to be less expensive and we're satisfying to everyone then waiting for the problem to occur.

Good installation practice would require nail plates to protect piping where it passes through framing Lumber close enough that it could be punctured by a nail. It worked great. We had new shingles installed on the roof in November. Now it is April. The system was turned on, but not cooling. Called HVAC company and was told there is a hole in the copper tubing near the soffit. Said the roofer was at fault. HVAC said code is for new homes, not ours built in Who is correct?

HVAC has picture of tubing before removed. I took picture of removed pipe. They found 2 holes. Please re-post the image if you can. Refrigerant piping should be protected from physical or mechanical damage by either routing or shielding.

For example where a line runs through a wooden stud you'd use nail plates to keep someone from driving a nail through the line. Route of the freon line from the ac unit to the air handler. This goes up the side of my house and under the roof line. The last time I had a new roof, the roofers punched a hole in the freon line. Is there a code on whether the line should be installed low enough to prevent this from happening? Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.

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